Bolts and Holds ‘25

A Day for the Setters

The try-hard energy flowed through Friends and Allies during this year’s Bolts and Holds, South Africa’s only routesetting competition. Setters from climbing gyms all over the country are invited to set some blocks, and the community come together to climb and vote for their favourite boulder. What makes it so special is that the voters don’t know which boulder was set by whom. It’s a rare moment where setters, usually the behind-the-scenes architects of our climbing experiences, step into the spotlight to showcase their vision, style, and understanding of what makes climbing so deeply joyful.

For climber and setter Kyran Manson, the experience was as much about personal growth as it was about community. “When I first started climbing,” Kyran shared, “the biggest thing that drew me in was the movement, how doing certain moves could make me feel so good. Setting gave me the chance to create that movement, to create that magic.”

Flow of the Day

The setters had spent the whole Friday morning letting their movement visions come to life, setting with a few challenges given by Wes. Towards the end of the setting time, they were informed that they would need to pick only one of their two routes to be voted on by the community. Having to choose between two of your own creations is a tough choice; it’s not just about what you want, you have to think about what the people will enjoy.

Through the year, Kyran honed his craft, learning the nuances of creating climbs that challenge, inspire, and include everyone. By the time Bolts and Holds came around, he was quietly ready, even if he didn’t yet believe it. “At first, I didn’t really back myself,” he admitted with a laugh. “But Wes had already put my name down, so I guess there was no turning back.”

Setting with Intention

For Bolts and Holds, each setter was given a wall zone and hold colour at random, along with the freedom to let their creativity flow. Kyran landed in Area 2, just right of the vert slab, a wall that immediately inspired him. “The second I got my tag, I had this idea,” he recalled.

His first boulder, a creative mantle problem built with orange holds, was all about fun, flow, and inclusivity. His second set, later in the cave with a set of big blue pinches, pushed into a harder, more physical realm. But when it came time to choose which climb would be voted on by the community, he knew the little mantle would win hearts. People seem to love a good old little mantle problem. “It’s tricky, it’s weird, and it’s fun, the kind of boulder people can work on, then finally send at the end of the night.”

Movement as a Language

What makes it so special isn’t just the competition itself, but the collaboration behind it. Setters from across the country work side-by-side, sharing holds, space, and stoke. “There was a bit of a fight for volumes,” Kyran laughed, “but everyone was still nice enough to share. The vibe was good.”

Throughout the day, setters crafted climbs that reflected their personal styles while still inviting everyone to play. For Kyran, one of the highlights was getting to climb the other setters’ creations afterwards. “Anj’s winning boulder really stood out,” he said. “Just trying the first few moves gave me that magic feel.”

Everyone who was climbing during the night experienced that the setters were bringing a different feel and tone to this year’s Bolts and Holds. Whether it is because of the new space, more volumes, new and bigger holds or because of the general diversity in climbing, it stood out that this year’s boulders were a little spicy compared to the previous years’ blocks. Movements that you can easily come across, out of real rock mixed with lots of dynamic movements and comp-style moves that do not get featured often in the everyday sets at Friends and Allies. “It just built my psych to help Joburg get better at jumping sideways”, states Kyran.

More Than a Comp

By the end of the night, chalk dust hung in the air, and smiles were everywhere. For Kyran, it wasn’t about winning; it was about learning, creating, and celebrating what setters bring to the sport. “We’re essentially the makers of the product the gym sells,” he said. “It’s amazing to have a comp that gives recognition to what we do.”

It is a good feeling to see the setters on the podium, and the unique approach that Bolts and Holds takes is special. Leaving the decision in the hands of the climbers is a true celebration of the love and appreciation for climbing.

The Art of Setting

If this proves anything, it’s that setting is more than just attaching holds to a wall; it’s storytelling through movement. Each problem is a small narrative: a beginning, a puzzle, a resolution. And when climbers step onto those holds, they become part of that story. As Kyran put it best: “At the end of the day, it’s all just for fun.”

Thank You

The stoke was truly pure, and it lingers on everyone as the year comes close to its end. Thank you all in attendance for bringing the love for the setters. When the community shows up, it means more than we think.