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Training On A Beast Spray Wall

When you need the Ondra neck to check the top-out.

If you’ve ever thought that wall is at too much of a crazy angle, or that that section of the gym has way too many hard holds and that the pros just seem so effortless on it. This section is for you, it will help you tame the Spray Wall Beast.

Let’s get started with a word or two on deep play, flow, and having fun.

You learn the best when you’re having fun and we all know that climbing is so much more than pulling hard or being able to hold onto a few bad holds through a cruxy sequence. Always make time for yourself to play and learn during your training session.


The spray wall is a great way to get strong and fit for climbing, but it’s also a great way to have fun while climbing, and get so much psych from your maats. Create never-before-seen boulder problems, choose holds that are challenging to stick, and figure out the beta for holding on.

The Flow-State, unlocked with time on the wall.

Time flies on the spray and it is very easy to sit on your knees, your arms pumped out of this world, and realise that the session has been going on for at least half an hour once one of your maats leaves the circuit. That’s your aim, you want to be spending time while you’re training, effortlessly inflow, without even thinking that you are inflow.

Note to the wise, the spray wall is pretty intense, so warm up with your pre-climb routine or by doing some easy problems on the competition wall. If you’re just getting familiar with the spray wall, start by learning the holds and climbing around on the wall, don’t worry too much about the sequence.
Get comfortable climbing up, down, and sideways on the best holds. If you’re feeling good go a little harder, you can either add time to focus on endurance (aim for 3 minutes moving around on the best holds with 5 minutes rest between) or make the climbing harder by using smaller holds and/or increasing the size of each move on the wall

Training with other people is an amazing way to keep your psych up and push yourself. Add-On is probably the most well-known of all the climbing games and it’s amazing because it forces you to climb a style that might not be your favorite while being mentally and socially stimulating. For the climbers who have never heard of the climbing game of Add-On, you are about to level up beyond your wildest dreams.


The rules are simple, you join a group of people standing around the spray wall and offer them a game of Add-On. Everyone agrees, because they are psyched climbers, and you start a boulder problem on the wall. After the starting holds you add a move with either your left or right hand. After sticking your move, you rotate out and one of your new tjommies rotates in. They do the problem, landing every move, with feet tracked or open, up to the last move, and get this, ‘add’ a move to it. The next person falls in and this continues until either the problem is finished or you are all burned out.

We are going to stop with the trianing beta for now. Hopefylly you will have all tested out the spray wall, and we want you to get stronger before we go for the next level. So stay tuned in the next couple of weeks and months for more beta an info on how FA’s facility and training tips are gonna to help our whole community downgrade Fern together!

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