Clarens is a seriously beautiful venue for South African bouldering. Closer than Rocklands for the psyched Northerners and just as tasty. It’s being radically developed since the early 2000’s and has quickly grown into a classic venue.
History
The association between climbing in South Africa and exceptional outdoor bouldering is widely recognized among climbers worldwide. The Cape region, in particular, offers a remarkable diversity of perfect rock formations for bouldering, with Rocklands being the main attraction. However, if a climber from outside the Cape were to be asked about bouldering, they would likely have a different story to tell. Bouldering in the northern regions of South Africa has always been a tale of disappointment, with our only main area, Ezemvelo, being closed and leaving us with nothing.
In 2015, a climber named Marijus Smigelskis and his brother Edvinas extended an invitation to a group of climbers based in Johannesburg to explore a new, untouched area located near the town of Clarens. I, Evan Margetts, was fortunate enough to be the person who assisted the crew in reaching the new area with the help of Tim Slab and Joshua McNally. For four long days, we climbed, developed new routes, and repeated existing ones, all while being left in awe of what would later become known as the Maluti area.
Since 2015, over 500 climbs have been established in three separate areas within Golden Gate. With significant development still on the horizon, Golden Gate holds the key to the birth of bouldering in the barren north. Considering the presence of an incredible town like Clarens nearby, it only makes sense to explore and promote this rock-rich region.
Access
To access the golden gate land you must obtain a hiking permit from the head office at the Glen Reenen Campsite. They don’t have problems with climbers but you must have a permit and be very respectful of the Rangers. They will come check if you have a permit so just be ready. Also avoid doing anything that would jeopardise the access to this truly great bouldering destination and bide by the rules diligently.
How to Get There
To reach Clarens from Johannesburg, it is recommended to take either the N3 or N1 route. The journey typically takes around 3 to 4 hours, depending on traffic and various factors. Opting for the N3 is the preferred choice. Upon arriving in Clarens, continue driving towards Harrismith, passing through Golden Gate National Park. Along the way, you will come across the Glen Reenen campsite, which serves as one of the areas in the region.
The Climbing
The style of climbing in golden gate mainly consists of pockets and crimps with a few lines offering amazing slopers. The prime lines in Golden gate are often aretes, bulges and faces with a few amazing roofs scattered around. The rock here is extremely friendly on the tips of the skin however the pockets can take its toll on the side of the fingers. The Rock can be very brittle at points so it is considered wise to climb ‘safely’ especially when topping out. Always check for loose holds even on established lines. Be safe.
Weather
The area is located on the foothills of the Drakensberg mountains so this can be a good and bad thing for climbing here. There can be more rain than usual because of its location however this also makes for absolutely amazing conditions year round. In summer the early morning and late afternoon sessions can bring great winds and cold temps. Winter is undoubtedly the best with cold, dry conditions for months. Bring a wet towel because you might need some moisture on those tips when it is really dry. The weather in Golden Gate is a big selling point.
The Classics
Since you’re now obviously keen on taking a trip to the gorgeous Golden Gates, we’ve compiled a short hitlist for you when you’re there. Can you guess what might have inspired the name of The Gods Must be Crazy? I’ll give you a hint, there was a coke bottle involved.
The Gods Must be Crazy 7B+
Hyheana Huck 6C
Vote for Pedro 7A
4 Leaf Clover 6C
The Cobra 7C
Azlan 8A+
