Climbing performance is complicated, but we're here to break it down for you
Do you want to climb stronger in 2022? As the home of the Scallywags, Friends and Allies is the perfect place to teach people the art of movement and the science of training.
I often hear climbers describe someone who climbs well as strong. “How many pull ups should I be doing, how long should I fingerboard for, and on what edge?” are questions that I get asked all the time.
Not many people ask me how they can practice committing to a scary move, how they can get better at reading a complex sequence or how to use momentum to help them with powerful problems.
3 Aspects of Climbing Performance
The three aspects of climbing performance was made popular by climbing training guru Eric Hörst.
A strength in one area can sometimes help you send, but a weakness in one will often get in the way of sending.
Mental, technical and physical. We often fail in different ways linked to one of these three aspects: we can see the beta and commit but just can’t get our foot high enough for the next hold, that could be a physical problem; we can get our foot high enough and can see the next hold but don’t commit, that could be a mental problem; we can get our foot high enough, we bravely pull up on it but don’t know where to go next, that’s a technical problem.
The Coaching Options A Scallywag Can Chose From at Friends and Allies
We here at Scallywags Climbing offer different solutions for climbers looking to improve their performance.
Have a look at the Scallywags website for some more info on our coaching and training programs. Our coaching options are for people looking to improve in any one of these three areas.
You can choose a once off technical session that lasts an hour and a half, we go through anything you’d like to focus on from the three aspects of climbing performance. We have 6 week cycles that you can do as an individual, with a partner or in a group of 5.
Why 6 weeks? Because that’s how long it takes to make a noticeable improvement in your physical performance and really come to terms with new skills and techniques.
Our online training plans are for people looking to improve their climbing with a program they can do by themselves in their own time, perfect for people who don’t want a coach or who want structured physical training as they work towards their goals.
It's so much more than just the physical, it's mental and technical too
Training the physical aspects of climbing are quite simple, but it requires dedication and commitment.
Spending time with a coach helps you see your climbing in a new light, coming to different solutions than you might by yourself.
A coach knows what questions to ask and can see different things when you climb. A coach keeps you disciplined and makes sure you’re not just training the things you are good at.